Encantada, Encantada, Encantada....(posting from the road)

I write this as the boat sways back and forth...dancing is how the crew refer to it (I think to make the passengers feel better – it doesn’t work). I am finally starting to get my “sea legs” after 5 days at sea. I have yet to be sick mostly thanks to the miracle drug Zofran.

I am a about half done an adventure in the Galapagos Islands aboard the 70 ft red sailing yacht, the Encantanda – the most photographed boat in all the islands. The boat holds 12 passengers (we only have 11) and a crew of 6. This means that 17 people live in what is charitably described as close quarters. The crew...captain, assistant captain, bartender, engineer, guide and cook are a pretty good group – most of them have taken a shining to Miss Leila thus my making my stay on board a bit easier over all. The one thing that they haven’t fixed is cabin assignments. Leila and I are in cabin 6...the lowest cabin at the very stern of the boat...next to the prop. If that sounds undesirable – well...it is.

Cabin 6 has actually become somewhat of a running joke abroad the boat. Not only are we in the coveted prop spot, we host the sump pump as well under our bathroom sink. This leads to an unusual odour wafting from that area that can be controlled by keeping the bifocal door closed at all times. The bunks were impossible to sit upright in and my bunk, the top bunk was also home to a porthole right smack in the middle. This means that the metal porthole cover frequently scrapes my back as I try and move in bed. My luggage is stored at the end of the bed, so I generally sleep in the fetal position with minimal movement. There is a little square piece of carpet should one, and only one of us at a time, choose to stand. The carpet is usually damp – despite the searing heat outside, nothing below deck ever seems to try.

The bathroom has become sort of “my room” – it is here that I have mastered dressing while sitting on the toilet. This helps with my poor center of balance on the moving ship and the lack of floor space. Showering is a whole other challenge. The water comes from a hand held sprayer – like the ones most of you have next to your sink for rinsing dishes or vegetables. The shower stall is so small that when you pull the curtain is effectively becomes plastered to your backside. I am sure that it goes without saying that water generally ends up all over the place. The aforementioned bifocal door does not like to remain closed and certainly does not slide with the greatest of ease...so it’s not unusual for the door to flop open while you are in the facilities either exposing your actions or at the very least spraying water over any remaining thing in the room that may be dry.

But for all of its faults, it has become home and for the most part we have become quite efficient at our movements while in the cabin – which is generally infrequent. Meals on board, signified by the ringing of a bell (I am certain that we will all develop a Pavlov response to bells) are generally quite delicious and plentiful. Best of all, they are served in an air conditioned dining room – the day temperatures here are in the high 30’s C / over 100 F. After dinners we have a briefing with our guide Juan that outlines the plans for the next day...where we are going, what type of landing, what we may see, type of footwear etc.

Travel to and from the islands is via a zodiac – that is generally in some state of disrepair but so far has managed to remain afloat. Maritime Galapagos law seems to be that, while in the zodiac, all individuals must either have a life jacket on or snorkel/fins with them – no exceptions. The Navy and National Park Service actually did once spot check our ship.

Overall the movement is somewhere between a gentle rocking and vigorous “dancing” – generally worse at night when we do our big sails between islands. I medicate myself into a deep slumber at nights...none the wiser. And so as long as my days are spent hiking on the islands or snorkeling in the ocean I will put up with the dancing and the shower curtain ass and even the challenges of Cabin 6.

(Juan would always call on the radio "Encantada, Encantada, Encantada" when trying to reach the ship. No one would ever answer him until at least the 20th attempt...so we heard the thrice Encantada alot)