Sunday, March 31, 2013

There should be a giraffe out my window...


I have arrived in my temporary new home on the grounds of the Muhimbili Hospital in Dar Es Salaam Tanzania. It was a surprisingly pleasant 24 hr journey across 3 continents. The home is nice – equipped with air conditioning, wi-fi and several pet lizards. Currently I am the only resident but there are 5 beds so I suspect that this will change at some point. There are idiosyncrasies that I will need to get used to, like when you turn on the sink taps, the shower will start. Today I killed a roach/beetle in order to have a shower – it took me 30 min to muster the courage. 
 
With no food in the house or minutes left on the mobile food that they provided, I decided to venture into the streets. It’s the start of the rainy season here in East Africa – I knew this coming over but figured with my recent years of living in Seattle, I should be fine. This is not Seattle rain – this is torrential downpour rain that strikes the ground so hard is splashes back a few inches in the air. The ground seems to instantly flood as the skies open up and warm bath water pours down.

It really took everything I had left not to break down in tears as I stood in ankle deep street water with my cheap Target umbrella all but useless trying to communicate in Swahili (the only words I actually know are hello, thank you, banana and lizard) to buy time for this ‘pay as you go’ phone. It took attempts at 5 different locations, including one in a butcher shop that also sold mobile minutes (I really wish I had taken a photo in there – a man in a nice suit was asleep on a plastic lawn chair while bits of dead meat were strewn about the floor) before someone was able to assist at all. Resolving to just be ripped off, I gave 20,000 shillings and my phone to a woman, and was honestly just grateful when a dial tone appeared. It was short lived joy as the phone just enabled me to be rejected by the suggested English speaking drivers who were unavailable.

Soaked and hungry I gave up and took a local taxi to a nearby supermarket – not the supermarket that I wanted that had a ton of selection, but rather a small shop that sold giant bags of rice for villages and a disturbing amount of ice cream bars. I was able to pick up some recognizable provisions although the volume of instant (read: what Amy Leah knows how to cook) products was staggeringly low. With not a Lean Cuisine in site, I was forced to select a protein source between the breast of a bird or the liver of an animal. Drenched already, I waded home through the streets with my purchases past a few coffin vendors who had respectfully decorated the caskets for sale for Easter.
There was a brief pause in the rains long enough to wander around my house but an encounter with a mongoose (they eat cobras) startled me enough that I have retreated behind my deadbolts and bars for the evening. So in for the night, I am going to try and FaceTime my mom back home so she can talk me through cooking what I am choosing to believe is chicken.

The rains do bring a vibrant lushness to the area and the view out my window is of lush foliage and fruit filled trees – I would think ideal for a giraffe. And while, logically I know that there won’t be a giraffe here in the middle of a city of 3.5 million people, I continue to check...just in case.

Usiku mwema (good night)

Apologies for the poor "African Wildlife" photos - I promise better in the future...the one is a mongoose jumping (I think) and the other is a a large centipede that I found in my living room.

5 comments:

  1. wish i was with you!! Happy Easter!!

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  2. AHhh good to hear you made it safely!!! Looks like there are some fun times ahead of you. :)

    Btw, whenever I need a laugh, I'll picture you frowning in torrential downpour with a pathetic umbrella.

    Best,
    K

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  3. Amy Leah, you are such an adventourous person...as I glance at the list of places you have been to. I can only relate somewhat to when I arrived in Haiti to work, scorching hot, 5 sets of bunkbeds in our room, only a cold trinkle of water from the shower, no toilet paper allowed in the toilet or it would plug, having to keep your sleeping bag off the floor and any food we brought with us, as our uninvited guests...cockroaches and mice...would eat them before us....but, I would not trade that experience for anything! Likely the worse week of my life but I still wouldnt trade it. I'm hoping things get better for you as you settle into your new surroundings and start your new job. You will meet new people, learn a new language as well as a whole new culture....what an experience Amy Leah...you go girl!!!!

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  4. I will also choose to believe that is chicken that you have as well. :) Btw...sounds like our cooking techniques are similar. Where is the guy that helps Andrew Zimmerman (from bizarre foods) find all the incredibly, yummy food when visiting these exotic locales? Hang in there. You got this! :)

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  5. Cyndi Ruiz-SeitzingerApril 5, 2013 at 7:33 AM

    Welcome to Tanzania! I hope you found some food by now and a typhoon rated umbrella. The pic to the right (tribal) is amazing. Is is recent? I'm having minor trouble in Spain. Now, when are you going to live it up in a European country??? My daughter wants to know if you loved Australia.

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