A smell that cannot be described.

And not in a pleasant way. 

After a long drive down an abandoned coast littered with shipwrecks, sand dunes and bones we arrived at our destination - Cape Cross.  Home to a cozy little lodge and 100,000 Cape Fur Seals, Cape Cross may actually rival Sioux Falls, South Dakota (animal rendering plant downtown) as the worst smelling place on the plant. 

I had been forewarned that a visit to the colony was mandatory but a smelly endeavor.  We were advised to wear the least amount of clothing possible, make it "disposable" and change immediately upon returning to the car.   Naked would not have been enough.

When you step out of the car multiple senses are simultaneously assaulted.  Your ears are treated to a symphony of barking.  Your eyes are treated to a blanket of adorable seals.  And then you take your first breath...and before the inhale is

completed you can feel the burning.  It's instantly in your nose, throat and somehow lungs.   The eyes that were previously enjoying the bounty of cuteness are now watering uncontrollably.  

You may briefly discuss getting back in your vehicle to try and get away as quickly as possible but realize that it's too late.  Seconds in that environment has permeated your clothes, hair and soul...only thing left to do is enjoy and marvel at this massive herd. 

There is a lovely set up and we wandered along the boardwalk as tens of thousands of seals went about their day...frolicking in the surf, sleeping on the beach or just barking randomly.  I've been told that the water is especially cold off this coast due to Antarctic currents - too cold for even great white sharks...otherwise this would be an absolute buffet.

So, if you should ever choose to go...and I definitely recommend it...plan for 20-30 min...wear clothes you plan on disposing of immediately after...and maybe try a shower cap - I swear when my hair is damp I can still catch a whiff of Cape Cross.