Three years ago I became mildly obsessed
with visiting Namibia's greatest game park, Etosha. It started after George,
one of my guides in East Africa mentioned that it held a special place in his
heart -"the animals seem to get along there". He was mainly referring
to the obvious sharing that has to occur at just a few waterholes inside this
massive arid park.
Instead of taking the guided safari tours
I have become accustomed to we elected to self drive and "hunt"for
game on our own. Success! Well...to some degree.
I have seen heaps of giraffe, springbok,
ostrich, oryx, elephants, jackels, zebra and wildebeest. Throw in some kudu,
ground squirrels, impala, three white rhinos and a hyena - that has been my
luck so far. It sounds impressive until you realize that absolutely no tracking
abilities of any sort are required to find these creatures...many of them
literally walk in front of the truck. The sheer size of some others makes them
more of a challenge or overlook then to actually spot. (Honestly...very few of
the trees are as tall as the Masai Giraffes here...you can
see them for miles
and the elephants are some of the biggest in the world)
Still eluding our stalking skills are the
big cats. Theoretically Etosha is home to the three large cats; leopard, lion
and cheetah. You would assume that they must be there right? I mean for
population control alone? Without these apex predators the park would be
crawling with herd animals as far as you can see...
Turns out the problem may not be my
tracking. I have discovered the Namibian secret to herd animal population
control...it was on my dinner plate. Served to us over the past few nights have
been zebra, hartebeest, bosbok, impala, kudu and oryx. Maybe there are no giant
felines...just hungry Canadians. Guilty feeling...yes. Delicious meal...yes.
(Before the hate mail arrives. The meats
served to us and all folks in Namibia are not hunted on game preserves. The
fact that I have not seen the big cats has everything to do with my poor
tracking and not their phantom existence)
The best...hartebeest.
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