The market aisles are not wide enough for my scooter!!! (posting from the road)

A new low point came today...I have, for some reason, developed massive pitting edema. I have no definiton between my calves and ankles. My feet are so puffy that my flip flops are stretched. As for my actual shoes - forget it. Maybe its the heat, the recent numerous flights, the salty food or just my luck. Either way I look like someone who should be driving a scooter around Wal-Mart. Not the ideal physical condition to trek through the largest market in the Southern Hemisphere, but I did. (I had to, it's on the list of 1000 places to see before you die - it was the 3rd place that I have seen on this trip and my 82nd (I think) overall).

Anyway, Chatuchak or JJ market is a true assault to the senses. The sme animal is for sale in both the pet department and the food court. Down one aisle is fine pottery and the next is live fish. Turn left and it looks like page 27 from the Pottery Barn catalogue but turn right and it looks like a scene ripped from a PETA poster.

Anything, and I do mean anything you may want is available at this market...pearl necklaces, snakes, aquariums, giant buddhas, mice, all sorts of parrots, chopsticks, iguanas, squirrels (both for food and pets), dogs, cats, dining room set, crocodile, roosters, the pelt of a tiger (I am fairly certain a live tiger was available if you asked the right person), wood carvings, plastic dishes, every type of live fish imaginable, pheasants, throw pillows, art work, chincillas...i think you get the idea.

They do mention in the guide books that the animal section can be a little hard to take for some, it wasn't too bad...at first. After the 30th row of improperly caged animals and animals that are obviously too young to be seperated from their mother, we just wanted to get away. Obviously in the maze that is JJ market this was impossible, instead a wrong turn was made and we stumbled on to a cock fighting ring. All local eys pelled away from the 'match' in front of them and turned to stare that our pale faces. I thought for a minute they were going to make us fight in the ring, against the giant rooster. I don't mind taking risks when I travel but I really don't want to die after being pecked to death in a market while locals placed bets. Needing to both avoid a scene in this obvious den of sin we had stumbled onto and wanting to avoid watching two roosters peck to the death, we tried to exit down another aisle. This brought us into the "holding area" for the roosters. Here rows and rows of roosters in wicker cages, some roaming free and even one in a Heiniken box were housed, all waiting for their turn in the ring. Dumb luck eventually got us back to a food court of sorts. Crowded and overflowing with new foods to try, it's certinaly not like the mall food court. I passed on the food that was killed directly in front of you instead opting for a chicken dish, or one that was 'prepared' out of sight. Sorry to say, it was delicious.

Tonight we met the group that we will be with for th next few days. Our guide is Dino, a flamboyantly gay, but hilarious Khmer national. We also have Scott, an accountant from outside of Sydeny; Kerry, a lawyer from D.C. and Jill, a med student from Houston. Everyone seems nice but will certaingly know more after our 7 hour road trip tomorrow...

Off to bed shortly, I have taken a total of 90 or lasix today in an attempt to relieve some of my pitting edema. Will keep you posted....

Kap-koon-ka for reading.