Sunday, November 21, 2010

Do you have anything on the menu that is not endangered? (posting from the road)

Whoa - before you come after me with pitchforks - kidding - nothing I ate was endangered.

It is no secret that I could stand to lose a few pounds...and I thought Iceland, with it's menus littered with seafood and creatures that I have never deemed edible, would be an ideal spot to jump start a diet. After a dreadful first day of eating cornflakes and some type of cafeteria curried pork dish I decided to take the culinary leap of a lifetime (and that is saying something after my taranchula dining endevours in S.E. Asia) and dine Icelandic style.

My advice to anyone taking this leap is to view it survivor style...you are trapped on this island in the North Atalantic...there is not a McDonald's in site for 1000 miles...better dig in and dine like the locals. (There is a chain called "American Style" restaurant complete with photos of Byddy Holly - but I just couldn't do it.) I watched the average Icelander, they seemed to be faring quite well eating these unusual foods - so I gave it a go.

Over the past few days I have had the opportunity to sample almost every traditional Icelandic dish that is not fish - pesky allergy (Whale is a mammal so my fish allergy did not apply here - before I get e-mails...Crystal). Full disclosure - I did not try Ram's testicles or sheep inards either - mainly because they were not on any of the menus in Reykjavik...but I hear good things.

A traditional Tim Horton's breakfast alternative is the Kleina - dough that is knotted and deep fried in mutton fat. It's good...I mean you read the part about being deep fried...but there is this aftertaste...I confess, I would take a TH double chocolate over it anyday.

Last year I read the book, "Whale Warriors" (which I understand is no a Animal Planet TV show) detailing some activists battle against Japanese Whalers in the Southern Ocean. I had images of the Sea Shepard attacking me in the night as I dined on what turned out to be rather delicious Minke Whale. Cooked simlar to beef and seasoned with a fantastic sweet soy glaze, the whale was a little chewy before it gave way and just melted in your mouth. (Interesting note -the countries that still participate in whaling in some form are: Norway, Japan, Iceland, Canada, Indonesia, Faroe Islands, Greenland and the United States - so think twice before sending me that nasty e-mail...)

I have never met a bird that I didn't like and puffin is no exception. I had to break a cardinal rule to not eat really, really cute things in order to down this iconic Icelandic symbol. The puffin was actually part of trio tour around the island and was accompanied by goose (I hope it was that one that attacked me - who's laughing now?) and reindeer. This particular reindeer was prepared almost like some sort of fritter - deep fried - so crispy on the outside but raw on the inside...okay...unusual.

I did give the reindeer another go of it and dove in to a delicious reindeer burger with a red onion jam and cranberry topping - much better this time. I wonder if you can make any animal a burger and it would taste good?
The most popular resturant in Rekjavik is actually a hot dog stand. The line up of locals and tourists streches around the block a peak times. Shawn was brave and ordered his with "the works", which included; battered and deep fried onions, mysterious creamy white sauce and mysterious creamy brown sauce. I opted to forgoe unknown creamy things and just have the onions - either way we both agreed that there was a distinct after taste that lingered way longer than it should...

Anthony Bourdain said that the most disgusting thing that he has ever smelt or eaten was in Iceland - the fermented shark. Luckily my fish allergy saved me from having to partake in this ritual but Shawn and Doug (different traveller we met) needed to experience it. To clarify - I have never met an Icelander that enjoys eating this dish, rumour has it that only old crusty fisherman will east such a thing. From the moment that the boys removed the lids from their jars, and the smell of rotting shark flesh wafted out...well it was all I could to to keep from vomitting. To their credit, the boys were successful in consuming the fermented carcass and chased it with the mandatory shot that is served with the dish. For those who asked - I will NOT be bringing any of that home with me...I am not sure if customs would let it and and I think the world will be a better place if we can keep this dish isolated to one island.

And I saved the best for last...want to discover the most amazing dish...ask the waiters. Every staff memeber we spoke to at the restaurants stated that 'foal' was their favourite. Foal as in baby horse??? "Yes, it is mouthwateringly delicious". I thought back to my pet horses, Dan and Buster for a moment before relenting and ordering a foal steak. So delicious...unable to describe it - meat far better than beef (and I LOVE beef)...melts in you mouth, amazing taste. I am not sure if all horse tastes this good or if it was good beacuse we were eating a baby - kind of a veal sort of thing - but a creature that delicious was certainly destined to be devoured at some time.

Don't persecute me too much - there is a chance you too may have eaten horse. According to a local, because of the over population of horses on the island, many times the export 'beef' to foreign lands with the consumer none the wiser. A waitress confessed that when many of the restaurants in Reykjavik run out of beef, they simply substitute foal - and the diners rave about the food. Think back now to the best steak you have ever had...hmmm....

2 comments:

  1. HA HA HA HA HA HA HA!!!!!
    Classic!!!
    Enjoy your baby horse.. probably fed soaked soft carrots by hand from sweet children who are allergic to the sun..

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  2. Nice, how can you even tell people you ate a baby horse...that's just plain wrong!! With that said, I would love to try some!hehehe

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