Screwed by spontaneity in Stykkisholmur on Snæfellsnes Peninsula (posting from the road)

I have been criticized before for over planning a vacation...there was a time when I used to make "Adventure Manuals" for my travel companions that had a complete tabbed dividers that marked the itinerary, emergency situational information and pertinent history to the area (Kirsi, Jolie and Barry can surely all vouch for this). And in my defence, I have gotten better...but I decided this time to be completely spontan
eous...just go where the wind takes me. Well the wind took me to an abandoned fishing village on the a remote peninsula in Iceland - apparently I have offended the wind.

After a morning soak at the Blue Lagoon Clinic, I reluctantly left in search of spontaneous adventure. The Snæfellsnes Peninsula had come highly recommended by some travellers that I met in the lagoon, so I elected to point my rental car in that direction. I made a nice, leisurely drive of it...stopping every now and then to photograph mountains or Icelandic ponies (all for you Tia)...no rush. The only nerve-wracking part of the drive came while driving through a 5.4 km tunnel that extended 164 metres under a fjord - in a seismically unstable country do you really want to be 164 metres/540 feet beneath water?

It was late afternoon when I arrived in Stykkisholmur, the largest town on the peninsula. I followed signs to what apparently was the only hotel in town. I arrived at a very nice hotel, fantastic views and presented myself at the front desk to secure a room...I had it all worked out...spontaneity triumphed...find a room, wander the quaint town and take photos and then sit down to a lovely meal. Spontaneity was then foiled by an unhelpful desk clerk - "I think we're closed". WHAT??!?! She called someone, said two Icelandic words and then turned to me and confirmed here earlier thoughts. I calmly enquired as to the nearest location of the next hotel - other than Reykjavik (not close) she suggested I try a Homestay.

I am not a huge fan of the Homestays (see the Cambodian posting "Hotter than Hell" if you are wondering why)...but considering my predicament I tried to follow her advice. Armed with a brochure map in Icelandic and some stars marked by the desk clerk I set out to try and find a couch to borrow. The first three stops...no one home - or they didn't want to answer the door. Determined, and tired, I visited another star on the map - this did not go well.

It rapidly became another one of those "what forks in the road of life brought me to this" moments. As obviously upset, hairy man came to the door - it was quite clear from his attire and attitude that I had just roused him from a deep slumber. I stood there while he yelled at me in Icelandic and when he paused to catch his breath I thrust my 'Homestay brochure' at him...I can't even blame him for his reaction. Imagine you are sound asleep, after I assume was a hard night shift somewhere, and a foreigner comes to your door complete with camera around neck and map in hand and then tries to sleep in your couch.

I don't speak much Icelandic, so the exact translation is lost on me but I can tell you it was NOT "please come in, make yourself at home - cup of tea perhaps..." I could tell that from the force that was behind the rapidly closing door - but then I am pretty astute.

Fully rejected by the town of Stykkisholmur, I slowly made my way back to Reykjavik...all the while thinking that if I had one of my "Adventure Manuals" with me I could just turn to the section on emergency housing...curses on you spontaneity.