“There might be a waterfall behind this teeming mass of pushy people”

Someday I will tune into the news and hear about a Western tourist that went crazy at Iguazu Falls and just started tossing people over the side of the guardrails in a crazed and frustrated attempt to see the water that they undoubtedly risked their lives to see, particularly if they flew “webjet”.  Upon hearing this I will immediately book a flight, on a real airline, and head that way to lend myself as a member of their defense team in any capacity needed.  For I can relate…

Nestled in the crook formed by Argentina, Paraguay and Brazil lies 275 waterfalls that form Iguazu Falls.  Second in volume to only the greatest falls in the world, Niagara, Iguazu too offers the opportunity to view the falls from adjoining countries.  The exchange rate of the Brazilian Real and Portuguese drove us to locate lodging in the sleepy little Argentinean town of Puerto Iguazú – and an opportunity to sample some delicious beef.  However, this did mean a repeat trip to Brazil would be necessary…to see the infamous “Devil’s Throat”.

After the general annoyances that accompany taking a public bus across a foreign border, we were treated to a crowded path that meandered along the banks of the Iguazu River with occasional viewpoints scattered throughout that supposedly offered random views of random waterfalls if you had the patience to push your way to the railing – I did not.  Growing up in Northwestern Ontario I was no stranger to water flowing over a rock – I am not here to see mini falls…I want to see the big falls.  (and if you think I seem like a waterfall snob…try travelling with a girl from Niagara – Leila won’t even get out of bed unless the waterfall has a UNESCO rating).

Finally, like a rat chasing a piece of cheese, I reached the end of the boardwalks to my own treat – spectacular views of the highest and deepest waterfall at Iguazu – Devil’s Throat.  (side note…isn’t that a great name for a waterfall?)  Well it’s a good thing is it so large...otherwise I am not sure I would have seen it over the masses and masses of people.  But despite the chaos there – the falls with their obligatory photographic rainbows – did not disappoint.

Confidently feeling as though we could check the Brazilian side off the list we ventured back to Argentina with the hopes of seeing the falls from a different angle…preferably with less people. 

Unfortunately it seems as though everyone read the same Lonely Planet guidebook I did and were all present to push and shove their way through the view platforms in this country as well.  Having had a chance to experience Devil’s throat from below, we took the little train in the park (yep, like a Disney train) and headed out to the impressively constructed collection of walkways that has been built to extend over the falls to give the tourist a sort of aerial view. 

Maybe it was the heat, or the long day of being shoved, or the public transportation, or the 2 long border crossings but by the time we reached the end of the walkway it felt as though we had also reached the end of our proverbial rope.  Gone was the tolerance for others with no ability to queue for their turn to see the falls and take a few photos.  It was just the shoving and elbowing that appears to happen in a mosh pit (I say this with absolutely no idea what would ever be going on in a mosh pit, just what I envision).   Seconds away from homiciding the lot, we extricated ourselves from the park and to a local steakhouse.

Not one to back down from a challenge, we returned to the park the next day to explore some of the other hiking trails offering views of the other 274 waterfalls.  Away from the main attraction, the park was far more pleasant…we were able to see local wildlife…snap a few pics of some falls and even bumped into “old friends” that we had met a few days before in Brazil.  A redeeming day before our next long travel days ahead.

I will remove ‘Iguazu Falls’ now from my ‘must see’ list and replace it with Argentina.  The teeny amount I did see of this country left me craving more…and not just the steak and wine!

P.S. While both sides had plenty of coati, we saw for more wildlife on the Argentinean side.